Phil Boyle: Thanks for that info, the hole now covered. The lathe came without a motor and a broken motor flange. The motor is American 180VDC and is mounted on a new flange screwed and glued to the original. I run it from 160VDC and have PWM speed control in addition to the stepped pulleys
james woodcock: sorry for typos and misspellings
james woodcock: just a note at the top of the headsock is a hole fr a lever its also a grease cover the leaver should still be in place or the hole covered somehow or you are asking to get metal chips in sidegreasebox i also notice a different motor quite a bit larger than standard the stock one is a glorified sewing machine motor i have an sl so i can quckly see the mods to this one that motor is huge compared to the standard one for these lathes but the mods are nice just don't ruin it cover that hole at top
Phil Boyle: They are made from brass, they each house a screw carrying a ball bearing which acts as a thrust bearing against each lead screw removing any end play
Paul Shaw: Hi... what did you make the brace out of for the bed rails and cross slide rails.. looks like brass, awesome job btw... also what do you have running on the end of the bed leadscrew (coming out of the brace.... cheers.
Phil Boyle: Thanks for the comments. Yes they are the standard screws, I have ensured that there is no endplay in the screws and the Z backlash on my machine is not too bad at around 0.003". If you can ensure (as in this case) that the screws only run in one direction, backlash is not a problem. If the Z axis has to reverse direction then some "finishing" will be required, but overall the time thius saves me in making small decorative terminal nuts etc makes it well worth while.
Blue Tang: WELL DONE! I have been researching converting my Unimat SL 1000 to CNC and been searching the web for days to see whether it is practical. Plenty of people out there say forget it because the Unimat has too much backlash to do what YOU HAVE DONE. I'd love to get some tips on how you beat the nay-sayers. Looks like you are running the standard screws (not acme thread or other inherently low backlash mods) did you do mods like anti-backlash nuts. Any tips much appreciated, and GREAT JOB!
Phil Boyle: This is an American 180VDC motor which I got on ebay. It has PWM speed control and I had to make a new mount for it. Its been in for about 5 years and get average use.Afraid I don't know about Treadmill motors.
theycallmeGIORGIO: hows the motor on this thing? im planning on replacing mine as well and was wondering hows it holding up? people have told me that a "treadmill motor" will work better.....????
Phil Boyle: Thanks for that info, the hole now covered. The lathe came without a motor and a broken motor flange. The motor is American 180VDC and is mounted on a new flange screwed and glued to the original. I run it from 160VDC and have PWM speed control in addition to the stepped pulleys Daethaqt3000: A Joyless Negro with a LARGE Clitoris!!! Susana Calderon: :) Becky Oravetz: thank you for sharing. this video rocks tahsin tube treatment: very nice little set Kelvin Berrian: Bring back the Budweiser Hot Seat, please! RazorRamonElJefe: poker face