Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part Two) And Reassembly




People Who Liked This Video Also Liked

Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part Two) and reassembly
Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part Two) and reassembly
Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part One)
Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part One)
Lee Enfield Bolt Disassembly
Lee Enfield Bolt Disassembly
Lee Enfield No1. Mk III (full disassembly and operation)
Lee Enfield No1. Mk III (full disassembly and operation)
WW1 Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly Pt1
WW1 Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly Pt1
No1 Mk3* Disassembly and Reassembly
No1 Mk3* Disassembly and Reassembly
YT Challenge Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly BLIND FOLDED!
YT Challenge Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly BLIND FOLDED!
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk.III* (SMLE) Review Part 2 of 3
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk.III* (SMLE) Review Part 2 of 3
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk.III (SMLE) Review Part 3 of 3
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk.III (SMLE) Review Part 3 of 3
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk. III* (SMLE) Review Part 1 of 3
Lee Enfield No.1 Mk. III* (SMLE) Review Part 1 of 3
The Old and the Bold: Short Magazine Lee Enfield Rifle
The Old and the Bold: Short Magazine Lee Enfield Rifle
Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 Disassembly
Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 Disassembly
WW1 Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly Pt2.
WW1 Lee Enfield Rifle Disassembly Pt2.
Denix British Lee-Enfield SMLE 303 non-firing replica rifle World War II
Denix British Lee-Enfield SMLE 303 non-firing replica rifle World War II
Lee Enfield 1915 Lithgow SMLE Rifle
Lee Enfield 1915 Lithgow SMLE Rifle
Shooting the Lee Enfield No. 1 Mk III SMLE
Shooting the Lee Enfield No. 1 Mk III SMLE
Lee Enfield SMLE No.1 Mk.3 (Lithgow ) .303 British
Lee Enfield SMLE No.1 Mk.3 (Lithgow ) .303 British
1.000 yards. open sights WWI British Lee Enfield No.1 Mk III (SMLE)
1.000 yards. open sights WWI British Lee Enfield No.1 Mk III (SMLE)
Short Magazine Lee Enfield SMLE
Short Magazine Lee Enfield SMLE "$200 worth of modern history"
No. 1 Lee Enfield SMLE Mark III* by SkilledAmateur
No. 1 Lee Enfield SMLE Mark III* by SkilledAmateur
SMLE Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 Canadian Long-branch 303 British WW2 rifle
SMLE Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 Canadian Long-branch 303 British WW2 rifle
How to strip Lee-Enfield magazines.
How to strip Lee-Enfield magazines.

Did this video help you?

Stig Stigson: Definitely a amateur armourer, rifle must be scratched up after that strip and rebuild. ...

Loren Mitchell: Thanks for the videos. Care to demonstrate how to dissasemble the bolt? Aloha, Loren

M96Swedish: What happened? no new videos for a long time?

Clint Wilcox: Thanks for a super helpful video, I have needed to repair a buttstock for some time and this was just what I needed to see how to do remove it properly. Great job!

Matt Boudreau: What exactly did you have in the butt-stock compartment again?

Andrew Gagnon: what is the part that you insert the stripper clips into on top of the bolt called? I have a 1918 Lithgow but somebody sporterized it and removed that piece. I am trying to find it to replace it but don't know its official name.

DayZwTrizzo: Cheers mate! Be needing this soon

brian wagers: do the Ishapore 2A1's have two piece stocks like this to? if so then doesn't that mean you can't fit a one piece stock on it? theirs synthetic ATI stocks that are just one piece stocks for No1 MkIII .303 .308 so i figured it would fit mine. if you have an Ishapore 2A1 would you plz do a disassembly for it? i see alot of ppl with 2A1's that are as confused as me.

24GordonFan223: just a note, i've found on the #4 enfield it's easier to check the sear/trigger alignment after you snug the 2 screws on

3sporks: This helped me out tons! Too bad I didnt see it when I dissassembled mine... Good lord did I ever lose parts and broken screws.

Logan Gabriel: Where's the VEGEMITE!!!!!!!!!! LOL

rossaust: @Bidimus1 1/19 is month/year manufacture. Likely that despite parts (receiver, barrel etc. being labelled 1918) it was not assembled till January 1919. May have other markings on butt, such as a Lithgow Shield and Model number, (I note mine are faint). CMF and 3MD markings are post WW2 of course.

thumperpaul: Very well done! I was wondering why the trigger pull on my "Sporterized" '43 (Longbranch) No.4 Mk 1* was so sloppy, and after watching your presentations, I found that the kingscrew was only finger tight. (as well, the buttstock was loose). My groupings have improved exponentially, thanks to you! I am looking to restore my No 4 to "era orginal" condition, and now I know what components I am looking for. Kudos to you mate!!! Awesome collection of rifles you have!

Roddo: Thank you for this video, mate. I just used it to complete some work on my 1922 Lithgow. As the man said, how wonderfully complex...er...I mean British..... I loved it. (Just kidding 'bout the british...I still have a 41 year old Perkins diesel that runs forever as well!. Again, thanks,...it help me as I tightened up the sight protector ears on the rear....

MrToadland1: cool beanz

gordon2089: Is it possible to replace the front handguard without removing the nosecap?

pigwigpa: how wonderfully complex... I mean British. Who I'm I kiding .I want one!

biggzyboys: great vid ,but may i ask why are u puting new stocks on to it is it to make it look more original with that finish on it ,keep the vids coming

aabceacba: We all know that we Americans modeled our Springfield after the Mauser,....with the exeption of the caliber and other details, it was for the most part, a copy (hey, Germany makes great guns). But from my point of view, we probably would've been better off coppying the Lee Enfield rifle (in terms of the bolt design, and ammo capacity) . Don't get me wrong, the Mauser is a fine rifle, but from what I've heard, I would've chosen the Lee Enfield. Just a thought... Which do you think is better?

KrazedGerman: I would check as many aspects as I could first. When I got my Enfield at a Bob Pope gunshow, it cost $220, bargained cuz my dad had bought from the guy before and is friends with him. Most if not all Enfields I've seen run around that price or higher.

Stick1370: I need to take my rear sight leaf off. Is it just pinned in at the front or is any of that threaded?

madmantxtx: I also have a 1941 Lithgow. Fantastic rifle.

Road Runners Dust: and then you get to re-zero it. oh joy of joys :D

Leigori: Haha... with the nose cap, as a certain Youtube Gun loving New Zealander would say "Use some brute force and ignorance."

Joel Ryan Music: Is it possible to have the Fore-Stock' and 'Front-Hand-Guard' end at or immediately after the 'Outer-Band' (exposing more of the forward part of the barrel) ??? Joel

TescoVee: Good stuff! love the Enfields

shootershit2: that damn bird at 4:20 scared the crap out of me

bones020694: seems like a complicated rifle...

stefanmckinley: That sounds about right, but the price also depends on the condition. I found a 1916 rifle for $200, the action was still in working condition, but the furniture was ruined.

charlie pidgeon: how do you take off the bolt on a mark 1 No 3 lee enfield as i need to clean the rifie

stefanmckinley: I dont remember exactly, but I think the frontsight is integral to the barrel, the rear sight is attached with a screw, but i would think it unadvisable to remove unless you had a problem or a new/better sight.

COUNTRYSIDE ISURGENT: nicly done..

Nate Quickmire: Great videos man. Thanks for posting so many, and on such a variety of enfields. I'm hoping to start my own collection here in Canada and these are very helpful in my research on what I want to get (or rather what I want to get first). Keep it up mate, cheers.

serekithegreat: Way kewl. Thanks for the post.

TheFonz: I also wanted to add, awsome jacket. 5th USAAF!

AMCer: $80 is DIRT cheap! The only thing to possibly worry about is that they may be Khyber Pass copies and are dangerous to shoot.

gmoore9449: Thank you so much for these videos! Not only did I get my No. 3 MkIII taken apart in a jiffy, I also got it back together again. And it works! Nine out of ten, sir!

Charles' Milsurp Firearms: @aabceacba Also, the Mauser 98 is a newer system than the LE, and everyone wants the newest. The Mauser 98 is mechanically more reliable. With the dawn of MGs and mechanized warfare, the rifle plays less of a role. The Mauser takes a bit less time and money (I think) to manufacture. Also, only the British Empire used the LE. And the Brits were recently bloodied in South Africa by the Boers who were armed with Mausers. Also, most other countries had adopted Mausers and were very satisfied.

dottaz: Grazie zio!! mi hai risolto un bel problema, continua così.

aabceacba: @something01992 Very interesting, thanks for the info.

TheBlackSpider82: Great vids mate!! =)

BLDiddybop: The tapping to get the wood stock from the receiver was my key to dissassembly. I've added a S&K scope mount to mine and am going to use it for hunting this year. Thanx for posting. It was very helpful.

Phaux Redtail: nooooo you forgot to add the sling D: I watched this just to see how it's done

aikalim87: @charliejamespidgeon Take a look at part one - draw the bold all the way to the rear, then turn the bolt head to the left, away from the rail. It should just click off.

Charles' Milsurp Firearms: @aabceacba I don't have an actual time period correct answer for you, but I thought of a few reasons. An external magazine is exposed to damage during the battlefield, 1 more thing to go wrong. Also, why make it detatchable if you load by stripper clip? The LE action is weaker than that of the Mauser, .30-06 is loaded to higher pressures. The Mauser 98 action/bolt is also much safer than a LE. Also the .30-06 cartridge is much longer than the .303 and would require a redesign of the action.

mofert: I love the Lee-Endfield, in my eyes the best rifle of the second world war

ronevsorg: Not different at all with respect to disassembly. I use Circa 1850 furniture stripper to remove all of the layers of gunk and stain...this product seems to work quite well on gun stocks. After that I tend to use a damp towel and a clothes iron on high/steam to raise the grain and get rid of any dents. I saw on a website that running the wood through a dishwasher can really clean and raise the grain but I haven't tried this. There's a lot of info for milsurp collectors online. Have fun!

willembrock: a very interesting and useful video...thank you for sharing it!

WILSON!: I was recently given one of these Enfield .303 rifles. I really like it so far. I was thinking about re-blueing it, but wasn't sure if the original was blue or black. Do you know by chance?

yerchedmad: I have a No 4 Mk1 but here in Canada, after the war, they all sporterized the No 1 Mk3 and No 4 Mk1 for civilian use. (Removed the front wood part, leaving the barrel naked) and im working on puting back the original parts. Thanks for this vid, will be useful.
Rating:
Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part Two) and reassembly 4.9 out of 5

Featured Video

Refacing Kitchen Cabinets

Latest Comments

Ramiro llanez: no funciona nada!!!! basura virtual
Cassie Sterling: +TheGamerTronShow What game was the clip from that's right after Grimskull but before the Prototype 2 Boss battle (#'s 6 and 5 if you need to know)? It looked really flipping sweet, and I might want to try it out (or at least find some YT videos of it and some of the other games you've shown me to show my brother, who would love to play some of these games).
Banana.org: Thats so awesome! I dont like the idea of dying all my hair, so dying extentions? PERFECT!
Neki Juniku: finally got him for 600 platinum.i worked so hard in the PA and hes awesome!
LimeGreen118: @mamacoda Aww thank YOU!
Michelle Sullivan: The tint is suppose to be sprayed while removing the clear liner not after the liner is removed. This is done to stop static discharge which is caused by removing the liner. Static discharge will pull dirt and dust particles from the air onto the tint. Like any other vinyl product when you use the squeegee ALWAYS start from the middle and work your way out with overlapping strokes. Also NEVER pull the squeegee, always push it. On framed windows when using the squeegee to remove water ALWAYS stop about 1" from the window frame. The reason for this stop is any dirt that is on the frame will not be pulled back under the film. When you pulled the tint off to re apply it you should have re sprayed the window. when you remove the release liner you should leave about 5" or so at the bottom of release liner still on the tint. Once the tint is secured in place on the main window that pull the release liner out from the bottom. You need to learn how to trim the edged. The edger is meant to ride along with window frame with the knife on the outside of the edger not the inside of the edger as you are using it. In other words when tinting windows the tint needs about 1/16" gap between the tint and the frame. If not when you squeegee the water at that point no where to escape. Not trying to come across like the boss, just trying to help you in the future with greater success. 
TheRuiivo PvP//HG: o meu da falha na conecção ... quando entra no jogo

Lee Enfield SMLE Disassembly (Part Two) and reassembly