FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!!




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Sergio Jimenez: CAN YOU TELL ME IF THE ENGINE OF THE 2006 FORD EXPLORER 4.6 8 CYL. IS THE SAME AS 2003 LINCOLN AVITOR 4.6 8 CYL.?

David Taylor: Major help thanks a bunch

Kenny Johnson: My 2000 navigator has that issue with the tube running under the intake.... mine has a large and a small hose tying into the tube.... the small nipple crapty weld to the metal tube is weak as hell and is blowing a stream of water at the weld joint (might jb weld that bitch). I probably caused it when replacing the freaking spark plugs moving the hoses around and caused the weld to fail on the metal tube. This has happened in the past before I got the car.... both heater core and the tube been replaced before and it now has 190K miles... can't see replacing the heater core 3x in 190k???? been smelling antifreeze since the summer via a/c now sometimes leaks a lil in right floor mat... and stinks like hell in passing gear and fogs windshield.... but the spraying water at the tube just started a few days ago... I changed the plugs xmas this 2 mo ago..... I think I found someone to do both for $350 if I supply the parts... being mine has 2 hoses 1 big 1 small connecting to tube can I still do your procedure w/o removing the intake? kennyj underscore wsp at hotm dot come

SoundOfYourDestiny: Thanks, but it would be nice if you said which car model this applies to in your title. For example, I'm looking to install a T-fitting to flush the cooling system in my Mustang, but the heater intake hose layout sucks. I may just replace the whole thing and re-route it a little because it's impossible to splice into. Anyway, a search turned this video up... but it does not appear to be relevant to the Mustang.

Steven B: Thanks , it worked great. I have 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. Very hard to get hose on at water pump but it worked and fixed the problem.
One note : I needed 3/4" to 5/8" straight adapter and 2 more clamps because hose was 5/8 from water pump and 3/4 at heater core.
Id suggest others use short piece of 5/8 from water pump to elbow, (buy elbow thats a 3/4 to 5/8,) 3/4" hose from elbow to heater core. What I did was leave old piece of 3/4 a couple inches out from heater core side, use 3/4 to 5/8 adapter, 5/8 hose to elbow, short piece of 5/8 from elbow to water pump.

Ninosinamor19: I can do that in my ford crown Victoria?

emma farris: just want to know if a 2000 ford expedition has an engine block heater cord? if so where is it located?

Kelly D: Wow, this was soSO helpful! Thank you very much for sharing, I can't believe I found this solution on the internet!

Kenneth Coffey: I've read most of the comments. Those that question the conversion in the video, just do it because tube on mine leaked in different places on all three repairs. The Triton engine is set so far back with so many hidden hoses, that it is actually better to follow the video exactly as recommended. You have easy access, eliminates the buried original hose with the entire operation making much more mechanical sense in design over factory design. You can make a clean transition at the firewall with a 5/8-3/4 reducer. Clean, professional and the only way to fix the forever leak problem.

gott dow: So you couldn't just replace that front hose that had the gaping hole in it and crimp ring it to the water pump inlet?

Southern Raised and Respectful: Nice Job! I had same problem and performed this fix this afternoon. Coolant hose was really rotted as you showed in video. Only problem now, is electric cooling fan runs when coolant warms up. I'll pull and check thermostat tomorrow, since it could be a problem since my leak was there for q good while. Thanks for a great video and fix!!~

Jason M. Townsend: Wow this is a Great Video. I have a 99 F150 5.4. This dam transfer tube just popped on mine. The only difference is mine is a Metal Pipe. I'm hoping I can figure something out the way you did. It may not work on mine since Mine is Metal, if not I'll be removing the Intake for the 1st time. I fix a lot of things on my vehicles but I've never taken on a job like this before. One of the Best things I learned from this video is The Grounding! I've been having Big BIG Problems with the Antifreeze in my Truck Rusting up so Fast. I've Flushed it, & Flushed Over & Over & it continues to Rust, so much so this Pipe Rusted through & Busted. I'm getting a New Ground Cable ASAP, I Never would of thought about Electrolysis. Thanks SO Much for the Video!!!! 

kennedy Stewart: I got steam coming from under my intake is this where it's coming from. 

Steve Campopiano: what year make model is this?  i need that style bypass hose and mine is hard line.

Steve Campopiano: Hello.  i am about to replace the leaking intake but would like to remove that horrid factory hard line and use your setup.  Heater core is already bypassed and i keep it simple on my personal daily cars....  Anyway. I have a hard tube and the engine shown has a barbed nipple setup.  I cant clamp that hose around it and be sure it wont leak.  Any idea what model i should use when i hit the dealer to look for this outlet piece?

psychotogen1: Thanks for the heat shield idea.  I'll be using that trick later on.   Nice job here

Manny Lumbres: Thanks a million. Just finished doing this. Saves a butt load of time n money.

InTheFleshInc: Hi, I discovered a leak on that manifold cross over at the part where heater core hose goes up and back. It appears to be at the connection where that manifold bolts down. Is that a common problem and is that exactly what you are working on here?

Dan Southern: FYI.....the inlet and outlet on the heater core is 3/4 in. and the pipe to water pump is 5/8 in. that's why you need the 3/4 x 5/8 hose connector off the core.
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FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! 5 out of 5

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FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!!