Buick Mackane: I have a 1999 Ford Ranger that burns no oil at all and it runs great when
the engine is cold and also runs just fine on the highway at 80 mph. But
when I get off the highway and stop at a red light the engine has a
stumbling, jumpy idle. Anyone have an idea what the cause is or is this the
camshaft position sensor causing the jumpy idle?
Jan Juan: I had my Camshaft Synchronizer replaced and I was just curious what it was.
I was browsing youtube for it and found your video. It was helpful. No more
squeak, thank God my truck was still under warranty, I did not have to pay
a cent on it. Like the buns, too. lol...cute :D
joe leatherbury: I watched you foumble through that and you wasted my time
koolponycar: One important thing to note. I believe Bob has a stick. I have a 2001
Automatic and after replacing these parts I found out that the automatic
has a REV LIMITER when in PARK that makes the engine cut out at 3000 RPMS
which sounds very similar to the TSB. I thought I had a problem but didn't
due to the auto with a rev limiter. Truck has 56,000 on it. Anyway the part
I took out was fine but I went ahead and installed the new one so we will
call that preventive maintenance. Lol! Cost for both was $130 from Amazon.
Thanks Bob for this video, it was very easy to do.
scooter12368: i put in camshaft synchronizer today. all went well for awhile. the timing
is good. but now the oil light is on. i ran for a minute or two and turned
off. when taking old one out. i looked in hole and saw what looked the oil
pump shaft sitting straight up as should. does the shaft move out of its
place when pulling out synchronizer? What could have happened. what do i
sixteamparlay: Thanks for the great video. I changed the syncro and sensor in my 2003
ranger @ 97,000 miles in under 2 hrs thanks to your explanation. Turns out
one of my u-joints was making the squeaking/vibrating, but my new syncro
should be good for another 8 years! Thanks
Colby Swob: just replaced the camshaft position sensor on my bone stock 2000 3.0 flex
fuel... it now misses on cold startups and high rpms and it only seems to
do it on the higher gears could i have messed up the synchronizatoin when
replacing the sensor or faulty wiring?? help please
SUR13BLUEDEMON: thanks man this video helped me it took me like 2 hours but it was good
when i started the car on time and all
MegaFlaxman: Thank you sooo much for taking the time to show people like me how to do
this, I've got a 03 taurus and the hard part on this one is the big wiring
harness that runs right above it. After talking to a mechanic who said they
tend to granade when they go, I figured time was of the essense. I bought a
new one at napa and oiled it up just like you did. Worked like a champ and
oh so quiet now, thanks again.
colindillykitch: Decided on the 45 dollar napa-Bulkamp unit. Poped it in and now my truck
has never run so great as it run's now,also year's ago it would ping but
the mazda ferk's never fixed it.No more cherp.I looked closely to find
origin of manufacture,turn's out China-Dam it! but it's new.Thank's,I'm as
happy as a" pig-in- she- I- t- it "!
Bob Plank: @djbiker27 mine is the 3.0L. The 4.0's may have the same problems, but I
haven't looked into it.
MdubG: i just replaced my synchronizer on my 03 ranger today but that tooth isnt
in the exact same spot as the original was it got shifted slightly left
will that have a major affect/effect?
Derek Messer: Thank you so much for posting this video! I just replaced the part in my
ford ranger and it worked perfectly! Only cost me $58
xyzbobboy: Ford garage wants $632.00 to do this on my Ranger. When they gave me the
quote I said,"No Thank."
conagraman: @conagraman- i figured it out lol. For anyone wondering -the "step up" or
"no step" is: at the bottom of the synchronizer’s shaft if it is a "step
up" you will see two machined sides which sort of square off two of the
sides- the other two sides are round. The "no step" version does not have
the machined sides it just looks like a round shaft. Here is the funny part
- you won’t know which one you need till you pull yours out and lok at it
HAHAHA FuKK u ford! LOL -hope that helps someone
djbiker27: @qwikslvr74 thanks for the reply. I cant find information about the 4.0s on
any forum. Some say that the 4.0 shouldn't have this problem, but I am.
Guess I need to take it to the shop. I don't even have a code reader..
Longhorn Jo: Great video and thanks for posting. I searched for info on this and decided
to check here found your video and it was perfect. I replaced mine last
night, runs great...again, thanks
905viewer: Great video. Was wondering what the part number was for the synchro?
djbiker27: Is your truck a 4.0 or 3.0? I have the same issue but everyone seems to be
talking about the 3.0.
Whitecrackertrash: you need to speak up on your video you speak to soft i can hear nothing
FuriousVigor: I would like to say thanks for posting this video. I have been fighting
with a squeak for the last couple weeks...the cam sync was it.. As a side
note for installing the new one. It did not appear to me that it was the
gear teeth engaging which needed to be lined up, but the hex fitting at the
bottom of the shaft. This allows ultimately only 6 positions available, so
a little more difficult to get wrong. How ever can be tricky because the
shaft needs to rotate as you push it down. Thanks again!
Joe Rader: I did this a few years ago in my 2001 Sable. Now I have a 2001 Ranger and
am going to do the same. Looks easier in the Ranger, less junk in the way
to deal with. As with my Sable I plan to replace the sensor as well for
good measure. The Vulcan is a pretty solid engine, but this seems to be its
achilles heal. Glad it's not too terribly expensive and easy to do.
RockAuto.com sells the synchro for 100 bucks and the sensor for 20.
Motorcraft on the former, ACDelco on the latter.
conagraman: @qwikslvr74 great video! thank you for posting!! i have a question about
this no one seems to be able to answer. i have a 03 ford ranger and i am
going to replace my camshaft synchro. there are two options one with a
"step on" and the other "no step" do you know what the heck the difference
thorfoxxx: what year is the ranger you are working on, i have a 2002 3.0 and cant seem
to find it
Kenneth Keaton, Jr.: dang I just bought mine for $72 after tax dealers really take you
John Salmon: Great video!! 96 Ford ranger super cab. I had a P0340 & P0401 code, watched
this video and replaced the camshaft synchronizer. 69.00 autozone, only
parts place in town that stocked it. Check the casting for high spots and
grind and sand smooth, or it will get stuck, as mine did! I removed the
hood to get over the work area. Use air compressor to clean motor off
before pulling the synchronizer. Lubricate o'ring before installing. Road
tested, runs like new. (250K miles) THANKS!!!!!
colindillykitch: Great instruction's.The hayne's book discussed all that unnescessary crap,I
thoght the problem was with the alt bearing's wasted 125 bucks,changed the
sepentine belt with a gate's and belt noise was illiminated but there was
still that cherp sound,grabbed the sensor w/engine running an sure enough
this squeak could be felt as well as increased. thank's to you and you tube
I'am on my way to a total cure.THANK's
dalesaa: I got my camshaft synchronizer from partsgeek for 34 bucks. for a 2003 ford
taurus v6 3.0
Ricmel710: what yr is ur truck mine is a 95 and I feel a little intimidated about it,
urs seems to be alot easier to get to..
Andrew1237100: thanks for vid. it helped. FYI for others: once synchronizer is set DO NOT
move synchronizer or fuel mixture is thrown off. I did this. Luckily I
realized it and was able to loosen hold down bolt give it a little twist
back and I was good. Good Luck
gus0440446: please help when u took the picks of the syncro was it on top dead center
thats the issu im having i took it off not knowing it had to back in the
same way now its on but bad idle pls reply as soon as you can thank you
Andrew1237100: you may have twisted the synchronizer after you seated the teeth like I did
and tweaked the timing.If you recall, loosen hold down and twist it back a
bit in the opposite direction. Essentially changing the timing mixture.
hlyshnt: 02 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0l flex dont have an engine light on or do i hear any
chirping under the hood, but i do have the problem of it bucking and
hesitating above 3000 RPM(very frustrating)... what i need to know is if i
actualy need to replace the cam syncro or just the cam sensor? info would
be much appreciated
colindillykitch: You tube provides alot of useful information,besides the ordinary crap,just
got to dig in and search.autozone offer's one for 69.00 bucks, tomorrow
I'll check the Napa store and compare.
Bob Plank: @colindillykitch You're welcome. I am very glad you found the video useful.
Youtube is a great tool, I've learned much from watching different videos.
Thanks for watching and for the kind comment.
colindillykitch: yea the two offered by autozone were cheap looking rebuild's,they looked
shot peened ,I made the mistake of buying their upper and lower ball
joint's a while back an now they feel like they're already worn out.What a
waste of my labor an time.
Bob Plank: @gus0440446 if its idles badly, then you might be off by just one tooth.
try taking the syncro back out, rotating the "tooth" one direction slightly
and replace it. If the idle is better, then you are on the right track. if
it gets worse, take it back out and go the other direction with it. Hope
this helps a little.
Bob Plank: @gus0440446 or, you can align the #1 piston top dead center, and find one
of those alignment tools to get it right. I think you can get one on loan
(they might charge a rental fee) from an auto parts store such as autozone
or advance auto.
Bob Plank: @colindillykitch That's great to hear it's running better. It's hard to
find anything not made in China nowadays...unfortunately. But, 45 bucks,
that's a hell of alot cheaper than the ford unit I paid for. Can't beat
Josh Blackett: Do the 4.0 have the same problem to
Bob Plank: @colindillykitch Do some research on brands. Maybe do a google search or
search some forums on the brand/make of the replacement. I read some bad
reviews on one of the units sold at Advance Auto. I believe it was the
Cardone part. I remember reading that they didn't last, and wore out
quickly. Napa would probably be the best bet for a quality part. I opted
for the ford part, but did pay the price....
sheilaw12: Wish I could get you to replace mine or teach me how. I'm a lady ranger
driver, and I am having this exact same problem. It seems that I just
replaced this two or three years ago, but I have a 2001 ranger and gettin'
pretty old with nearly 140,000 miles.