varanidguy: I like to decap, polish, resize, trim. The tumbler does a really good job
of cleaning primer pockets for you and I'm all for doing less manually. I
haven't had a problem with having metal shavings inside my cases, I just
tap 'em on the bench after all the trimming, chamfering, and deburring.
Mark Wilson: Thank you for taking the time.
tigersire: Hey buddy. Get your stuff in the proper specs.
Nunya Bizness: Who is this fellow? Firearm savvy, very articulate, shoots extremely well,
and kinda sorta - pronunciation wise, even sounds like the Nuge. Alright
Rex what's the deal with that, hair, sideburns, is Ted Nugent your pops?
That shirt sorta seals the deal. All seriousness now, that was well done
on the reload case prep tutorial.
urbanmerc1: Why do you trim that way vs trimming to the datum point on the shoulder. I
would think trimming to an overall length would be less consistent. Thanks
Rex great video series keep em coming brother.
PaleHearse: Only thing that might also bear mentioning (not an expert here..just a
process engineer who's interested in reloading) is that the reason those
cases get stretched is that the material is moved up the case. Removing
the excess length repeatedly will also mean that that material came from
lower down the neck. Measuring the case thickness at the neck will also be
important to make sure it's not too thin.
You should probably do this when you measure the case to make sure you
don't get all the way to the end after polishing and find the case won't
Villamor78: To make my reloading life easier, I use a stainless steel tumbler. Cases
becomes spotless clean inside and out. It also deburs and chamfers the
primer pocket and neck. The Little Crow Gunworks trimmer is also a great
tool for trimming. Plug it to a power drill and you trim hundreds of cases
in an hour with consistent results.
SA Bjork: Great vid, Consistency is important. I found that Ultra Sonic cleaning get
the primer pockets, and case internals, very clean without the manual
labor. And secondly, you can also chuck the Lee cutter/trimmer into a drill
press and vise the locking shell holder into a drill vise where you are
spinning the cutter and not the case. This works for large volumes and
saves your fingers from blisters and cramps. Good work.
Bill Lynch: I do the samething as villanor78 best media ever. Some water lemi shine and
done. And I use little crows finest trimmer as well for all my calibers.
*\- .0010 trim length
Rudy Mendoza: Where's your safety glasses?
Marc Bolger: What's your take on "Neck Turning" I need to learn this and I am also
wondering if it is something we really need to do? When it is usually
needed etc.. There is no end to what I don't know. I have read almost
half of this book titled "Metallic cartridge Hand Loading" by Mic
McPherson. In this book I learned to polish my neck after I have chamfered
and de-burred to remove the rough edge of the cutting tool used by lacing
fine steel wool around the brush. Run that through it a bit to make it
smooth like glass for seating my bullet. I also wash my brass with a sonic
washer before I de-cap and neck size and after. I guess I do it before so
when I run my die through my brass it seems cleaner on my die's machine
surface being a bit less friction and smoother sizing press action. "?"
TheCharillz23: thanks so much rex. I love you videos. for everyone out there check out the
steel media works great. made my own tumbler for 40 bucks and cleans better
than any media i've come across. also i buy box ammo for brass shoot it
and reload it. mainly because i dont get shoot more than 300 more than 3
times a year=(
GeneralG1810: Man get a thumlers tumbler it cleans primer pocket, inside the case and
outside the case. they are freaking awesome best way to clean your brass
Ted Bundy: Awesome. Thanks for this video. Very useful information. You do sound
like Uncle Ted!
Jonno2summit: I tumble my brass twice. First tumble is the first step just to save
wear-and-tear on my dies - just an hour. Then I de-prime/resize. For range
brass I run the heads lightly over a metal file to take down the high spots
and make my brass of various mfg more uniform, then I run a primer pocket
reamer in there. Often the reamer will take out more material on one side.
That is when I know I've just made my primer pockets more linear/straight
with the centerline of the casing. For those who tumble in organic media
like corn or walnut, you can dribble some Hoppes #9 in there, and Brasso
brass polish to clean and polish. Having compressed air on hand to blow out
casings with high pressure really helps to make things clean.
batmandeltaforce: If you want consistency you don't reload to begin with.
Jonno2summit: My thumb muscles are killing me! lol
Jacob S.: The funny thing about media I've noticed is that I've used the same pile of
media for a LOT of tumbling! I only ever replaced it once but that was
because I spilled it all over the ground lol You can get a lot of uses out
of one pile.
ralph hainsworth: Where's your safety glasses??
Christian Mire: What do you think of the metal media polishing?
Jay O'Connor: Great Vids, thanks so much. You say that consistency across the board is
important so I think I already know the answer to my first question.
Should I trim all my brass to the same length if it is under the Max Case
length as this will affect the bullet seating depth? If so, how short is
too short and are there safety concerns with 'shorter' brass? Thanks
Samiam: Keep up the great selfless work you're doing sir. So I decided to go with
a .260 Rem Savage Model 12 LRP mounted in the AWT chassis w/ Steiner
glass. Two concerns of mine are finding materials to reload and throat
erosion. Would it be easier/safer to resize .243 or .308 brass for a rainy
day scenario ;o)? The other concern is how many rounds are you getting out
of your .243 barrels before you notice throat/bore issues, i.e. the Ruger
M77, and the wife's Remington?
TiborasaurusRex: I would be concerned that no matter how well I cleaned out the cases after
tumbling, that some of that steel media (no matter how small) would remain
in the case and would result in terribly accelerated longitudinal
mechanical erosion in the bore microstructure during firing that could
later facilitate gas jetting which would wreak havoc on your bore in short
order. I would stick to the organics (walnut, corn cob) - a much healthier
diet indeed. :-)
DocLarsen44: Good vid, and not just because you do your cases how I do it. LOL I also
chuck the primer pocket tool. BTW, I hit the inside chamfer a bit more
which helps in setting flat base projectiles. Another trick if your cases
are real nasty: hit them with a scotch-brite pad or steel wool while they
are chucked. Don't over do it, like I used to, as it will reduce the life
of your brass. But they sure are shiny! I sometimes hit the mouth with it
to polish the chamfer and remove sharp edges as well.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on. Thanks for the tip and sharing your experience, sir.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on, thanks for the tips. With the volume of ammo I reload, that may
be a good idea.
TiborasaurusRex: In my .243 I actually do full length sizing.
Ilya Zagumennyy: If you use a wet stainless steel pin tumbler, the primer pockets get really
clean, all of them, and no powder dust and stuff being blown around.
LKN4WAR: Dillion media separator under water will get all the stainless pins out in
762x51. Oven dry and can use magnet to pull any pins left. Never seen any
in that cal. 556 more critical to check.
Daniel Awesome: huh... this is a very valid point
BygLebowski: Thanks Rex; great info-you outta sell a cd man...Glad to see we're pretty
much on the same page here. On those super nasty range artifacts (brass;
not bones) you can soak in silver cleaner (Tarn-X) for about 10 min or so,
then rinse, dry, do the nine yards, and do the tumbler. Saves the media and
busts up and dissolves the carbon a lot inside the case. Tarn-X can be
reused several times before it turns yellowish. Just did a bag of ugly
boondock 30 Sprs that way. Thanks again.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on. That ought to do it.
Pukka Bukka: Just my thinking.
Ferguson101: First to like. :P
TiborasaurusRex: This one trimmed them down to 2.040ish, about halfway there, but I think
the cutting tool had some shavings on it when I tightened it down - so if a
guy would clean it up before tightening it it would trim a little closer.
:-/ Tired guy reloading... A headspace gauge will be needed primarily when
you time the barrel and cut the chamber, otherwise its not something a guy
would need everyday.
BygLebowski: Yep; on the real gnarly ones give it a go (i.e., brass left for dead)--for
the effect and time you'll never go back. Your grocery store will have it.
The HOac works on modest stuff in my experience..
BigBUSN: You should Try the Thulmers tumbler with Stainless Steel media. It does a
great job. It cleans everything so well it looks better then new. It even
cleans the flash hole and Primer Pocket.
TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man - she's the perfect chick for me.
ExON Norway: Great videos, can't wait till we get to ballistic table development.
alphawolf146714: Love the videos, want to give kudos to your mrs also its great that she is
involved in your project. Working on getting my wife involved with my
MultiMrNoone: I am curious, if you don't tumble until after resizing are you concerned at
all about scratching your dies or whatnot from all of the gunk on the
drew chan: hey man i shoot factory m855 rounds in my bolt, i bought the bullets to
reload it. and when i do its less accurate than the factory.... i use cci
#400, 24.5 gr. varget, and ss109 projectiles...... also when i seat and
crimp, it musrooms the base of the neck.... please help dude thanks!
Foss2506: Rex - thank you very much - these are so informative and clear. A couple of
questions: 1 - the video didn't show you measuring the case length after
you trimmed and de-burred it. If you did, would the Lee trimmer have taken
it 2.035?; and 2. I've been given a hornady headspace gauge - do you use
these and if so please would do an explanation some time? Really great
videos again - thank you.
Sanus180: Rex I've been using an air compressor to blow out the brass shavings once
I've resized... It saves having to it the brass in a tumbler.... I've
Barbarossa4U: I always measure the length of a few with the caliper after trimming just
to make sure they fall within range but I am meticulous like that.
Pukka Bukka: BygLebowski is right Tibo. You gotta work out a way. This knowledge should
be generating some income. The napster guy is with spotify. Even maybe
donations for now? So it's still about getting the knowledge out there,
LKN4WAR: It's slow but the Sinclair ultimate micrometer trimmer works very well. I
hand chamfer some brass and can hear a distinct frequency change when
outside chamfer after a number if turns back n forth. Thanks for videos.
hooterman2828: i've seen some videos with the guys are using a hammer instead of a press,
is there a certain type of die set you have to get to use the hammer or are
they just using a regular die set and just using a hammer for pressure
instead of the bench mount press?
TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man.
johnny wadd: Good video.