SNIPER 101 Part 49 - Primer Pockets & Case Trimming




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SNIPER 101 Part 49 - Primer Pockets & Case Trimming
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Villamor78: To make my reloading life easier, I use a stainless steel tumbler. Cases becomes spotless clean inside and out. It also deburs and chamfers the primer pocket and neck. The Little Crow Gunworks trimmer is also a great tool for trimming. Plug it to a power drill and you trim hundreds of cases in an hour with consistent results.

Nunya Bizness: Who is this fellow? Firearm savvy, very articulate, shoots extremely well, and kinda sorta - pronunciation wise, even sounds like the Nuge. Alright Rex what's the deal with that, hair, sideburns, is Ted Nugent your pops? That shirt sorta seals the deal. All seriousness now, that was well done on the reload case prep tutorial. 

PaleHearse: Only thing that might also bear mentioning (not an expert here..just a process engineer who's interested in reloading) is that the reason those cases get stretched is that the material is moved up the case. Removing the excess length repeatedly will also mean that that material came from lower down the neck. Measuring the case thickness at the neck will also be important to make sure it's not too thin. You should probably do this when you measure the case to make sure you don't get all the way to the end after polishing and find the case won't pass.

Bill Lynch: I do the samething as villanor78 best media ever. Some water lemi shine and done. And I use little crows finest trimmer as well for all my calibers. *\- .0010 trim length 

Marc Bolger: What's your take on "Neck Turning" I need to learn this and I am also wondering if it is something we really need to do? When it is usually needed etc.. There is no end to what I don't know. I have read almost half of this book titled "Metallic cartridge Hand Loading" by Mic McPherson. In this book I learned to polish my neck after I have chamfered and de-burred to remove the rough edge of the cutting tool used by lacing fine steel wool around the brush. Run that through it a bit to make it smooth like glass for seating my bullet. I also wash my brass with a sonic washer before I de-cap and neck size and after. I guess I do it before so when I run my die through my brass it seems cleaner on my die's machine surface being a bit less friction and smoother sizing press action. "?"

TheCharillz23: thanks so much rex. I love you videos. for everyone out there check out the steel media works great. made my own tumbler for 40 bucks and cleans better than any media i've come across. also i buy box ammo for brass shoot it and reload it. mainly because i dont get shoot more than 300 more than 3 times a year=(

SA Bjork: Great vid, Consistency is important. I found that Ultra Sonic cleaning get the primer pockets, and case internals, very clean without the manual labor. And secondly, you can also chuck the Lee cutter/trimmer into a drill press and vise the locking shell holder into a drill vise where you are spinning the cutter and not the case. This works for large volumes and saves your fingers from blisters and cramps. Good work.

Rudy Mendoza: Where's your safety glasses?

Ted Bundy: Awesome. Thanks for this video. Very useful information. You do sound like Uncle Ted!

Jacob S.: The funny thing about media I've noticed is that I've used the same pile of media for a LOT of tumbling! I only ever replaced it once but that was because I spilled it all over the ground lol You can get a lot of uses out of one pile.

Jay O'Connor: Great Vids, thanks so much. You say that consistency across the board is important so I think I already know the answer to my first question. Should I trim all my brass to the same length if it is under the Max Case length as this will affect the bullet seating depth? If so, how short is too short and are there safety concerns with 'shorter' brass? Thanks 

Christian Mire: What do you think of the metal media polishing? 

ralph hainsworth: Where's your safety glasses??

Samiam: Keep up the great selfless work you're doing sir. So I decided to go with a .260 Rem Savage Model 12 LRP mounted in the AWT chassis w/ Steiner glass. Two concerns of mine are finding materials to reload and throat erosion. Would it be easier/safer to resize .243 or .308 brass for a rainy day scenario ;o)? The other concern is how many rounds are you getting out of your .243 barrels before you notice throat/bore issues, i.e. the Ruger M77, and the wife's Remington?

TiborasaurusRex: I would be concerned that no matter how well I cleaned out the cases after tumbling, that some of that steel media (no matter how small) would remain in the case and would result in terribly accelerated longitudinal mechanical erosion in the bore microstructure during firing that could later facilitate gas jetting which would wreak havoc on your bore in short order. I would stick to the organics (walnut, corn cob) - a much healthier diet indeed. :-)

DocLarsen44: Good vid, and not just because you do your cases how I do it. LOL I also chuck the primer pocket tool. BTW, I hit the inside chamfer a bit more which helps in setting flat base projectiles. Another trick if your cases are real nasty: hit them with a scotch-brite pad or steel wool while they are chucked. Don't over do it, like I used to, as it will reduce the life of your brass. But they sure are shiny! I sometimes hit the mouth with it to polish the chamfer and remove sharp edges as well.

TiborasaurusRex: Right on. Thanks for the tip and sharing your experience, sir.

TiborasaurusRex: Right on, thanks for the tips. With the volume of ammo I reload, that may be a good idea.

TiborasaurusRex: In my .243 I actually do full length sizing.

Ilya Zagumennyy: If you use a wet stainless steel pin tumbler, the primer pockets get really clean, all of them, and no powder dust and stuff being blown around.

cartersks: The case length thing happened to me but i use factory ammo the bolt would be hard to close and open and sometimes the empty case would get stuck in the chamber

LKN4WAR: Dillion media separator under water will get all the stainless pins out in 762x51. Oven dry and can use magnet to pull any pins left. Never seen any in that cal. 556 more critical to check.

daniel glisson: huh... this is a very valid point

BygLebowski: Thanks Rex; great info-you outta sell a cd man...Glad to see we're pretty much on the same page here. On those super nasty range artifacts (brass; not bones) you can soak in silver cleaner (Tarn-X) for about 10 min or so, then rinse, dry, do the nine yards, and do the tumbler. Saves the media and busts up and dissolves the carbon a lot inside the case. Tarn-X can be reused several times before it turns yellowish. Just did a bag of ugly boondock 30 Sprs that way. Thanks again.

TiborasaurusRex: Right on. That ought to do it.

Pukka Bukka: Just my thinking.

Ferguson101: First to like. :P

TiborasaurusRex: This one trimmed them down to 2.040ish, about halfway there, but I think the cutting tool had some shavings on it when I tightened it down - so if a guy would clean it up before tightening it it would trim a little closer. :-/ Tired guy reloading... A headspace gauge will be needed primarily when you time the barrel and cut the chamber, otherwise its not something a guy would need everyday.

BygLebowski: Yep; on the real gnarly ones give it a go (i.e., brass left for dead)--for the effect and time you'll never go back. Your grocery store will have it. The HOac works on modest stuff in my experience..

BigBUSN: You should Try the Thulmers tumbler with Stainless Steel media. It does a great job. It cleans everything so well it looks better then new. It even cleans the flash hole and Primer Pocket.

TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man - she's the perfect chick for me.

ExON Norway: Great videos, can't wait till we get to ballistic table development.

alphawolf146714: Love the videos, want to give kudos to your mrs also its great that she is involved in your project. Working on getting my wife involved with my shooting also.

MultiMrNoone: I am curious, if you don't tumble until after resizing are you concerned at all about scratching your dies or whatnot from all of the gunk on the cases?

drew chan: hey man i shoot factory m855 rounds in my bolt, i bought the bullets to reload it. and when i do its less accurate than the factory.... i use cci #400, 24.5 gr. varget, and ss109 projectiles...... also when i seat and crimp, it musrooms the base of the neck.... please help dude thanks!

Foss2506: Rex - thank you very much - these are so informative and clear. A couple of questions: 1 - the video didn't show you measuring the case length after you trimmed and de-burred it. If you did, would the Lee trimmer have taken it 2.035?; and 2. I've been given a hornady headspace gauge - do you use these and if so please would do an explanation some time? Really great videos again - thank you.

Sanus180: Rex I've been using an air compressor to blow out the brass shavings once I've resized... It saves having to it the brass in a tumbler.... I've

Darryl Mullen: I still tumble them after the soak, but the soaking removes or loosens the residue, so the tumble only takes about 15 to 20 minutes. I'm really very meticulous about reloading. I actually polish my cases with brass cleaner, so when I prime, throw powder and load the actual bullet, they come out looking better than new.

Barbarossa4U: I always measure the length of a few with the caliper after trimming just to make sure they fall within range but I am meticulous like that.

Darryl Mullen: Another great and informative video. I also clean my brass again before I prime. When I pick up brass at the range, or if my brass is really nasty, I actually soak them in a solution of 1gal of water, 1 cup of vinegar and 2 tablespoons of salt for about 30 minutes. I then rinse them with clean water and heat them in the oven at about 200 deg F for 10 minutes to get the moisture out of the cases. You do not want to get the cases too hot as this will make the body of the case pliable.

Pukka Bukka: BygLebowski is right Tibo. You gotta work out a way. This knowledge should be generating some income. The napster guy is with spotify. Even maybe donations for now? So it's still about getting the knowledge out there, about sharing

LKN4WAR: It's slow but the Sinclair ultimate micrometer trimmer works very well. I hand chamfer some brass and can hear a distinct frequency change when outside chamfer after a number if turns back n forth. Thanks for videos.

hooterman2828: i've seen some videos with the guys are using a hammer instead of a press, is there a certain type of die set you have to get to use the hammer or are they just using a regular die set and just using a hammer for pressure instead of the bench mount press?

TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man.

Darryl Mullen: Haven't tried Tarn-X. Maybe I'll give that a shot, but for the money, my recipe is much cheaper I am sure. :) Thanks.

johnny wadd: Good video.

Nathan Nelson: Dryfirefive it seems you only like to say good things for politicians and little boys. That being said I commend u rex for all your hard work on these vids. keep up the great work on the series. Many of us that didn't get this knowledge passed down, are surely grateful for you time and efforts. Keep em coming your badass in my book brother....dryfirefive u smell

Justin Reed: How many times can you reuse the same brass casing?

TiborasaurusRex: Check your case length. That could crinkle your necks if they are running too long. Trimming may be the cure for that. Many of the SS-109s available on the market are 'pulled' bullets, which may have been damaged or deformed. That could do it as well. Also, generally speaking, load development is very important to find that harmonic sweet spot. I discuss this a little more in detail later on. Consistency across the board is the name of the game - it takes lots of practice. Hang in there :-)

TiborasaurusRex: Right on. That may be very helpful.
Rating:
SNIPER 101 Part 49 - Primer Pockets & Case Trimming 4.9 out of 5

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SNIPER 101 Part 49 - Primer Pockets & Case Trimming