Jacob S.: The funny thing about media I've noticed is that I've used the same pile of
media for a LOT of tumbling! I only ever replaced it once but that was
because I spilled it all over the ground lol You can get a lot of uses out
of one pile.
Samiam: Keep up the great selfless work you're doing sir. So I decided to go with
a .260 Rem Savage Model 12 LRP mounted in the AWT chassis w/ Steiner
glass. Two concerns of mine are finding materials to reload and throat
erosion. Would it be easier/safer to resize .243 or .308 brass for a rainy
day scenario ;o)? The other concern is how many rounds are you getting out
of your .243 barrels before you notice throat/bore issues, i.e. the Ruger
M77, and the wife's Remington?
ralph hainsworth: Where's your safety glasses??
Christian Mire: What do you think of the metal media polishing?
Jay O'Connor: Great Vids, thanks so much. You say that consistency across the board is
important so I think I already know the answer to my first question.
Should I trim all my brass to the same length if it is under the Max Case
length as this will affect the bullet seating depth? If so, how short is
too short and are there safety concerns with 'shorter' brass? Thanks
TiborasaurusRex: I would be concerned that no matter how well I cleaned out the cases after
tumbling, that some of that steel media (no matter how small) would remain
in the case and would result in terribly accelerated longitudinal
mechanical erosion in the bore microstructure during firing that could
later facilitate gas jetting which would wreak havoc on your bore in short
order. I would stick to the organics (walnut, corn cob) - a much healthier
diet indeed. :-)
DocLarsen44: Good vid, and not just because you do your cases how I do it. LOL I also
chuck the primer pocket tool. BTW, I hit the inside chamfer a bit more
which helps in setting flat base projectiles. Another trick if your cases
are real nasty: hit them with a scotch-brite pad or steel wool while they
are chucked. Don't over do it, like I used to, as it will reduce the life
of your brass. But they sure are shiny! I sometimes hit the mouth with it
to polish the chamfer and remove sharp edges as well.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on. Thanks for the tip and sharing your experience, sir.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on, thanks for the tips. With the volume of ammo I reload, that may
be a good idea.
TiborasaurusRex: In my .243 I actually do full length sizing.
Ilya Zagumennyy: If you use a wet stainless steel pin tumbler, the primer pockets get really
clean, all of them, and no powder dust and stuff being blown around.
cartersks: The case length thing happened to me but i use factory ammo the bolt would
be hard to close and open and sometimes the empty case would get stuck in
LKN4WAR: Dillion media separator under water will get all the stainless pins out in
762x51. Oven dry and can use magnet to pull any pins left. Never seen any
in that cal. 556 more critical to check.
daniel glisson: huh... this is a very valid point
BygLebowski: Thanks Rex; great info-you outta sell a cd man...Glad to see we're pretty
much on the same page here. On those super nasty range artifacts (brass;
not bones) you can soak in silver cleaner (Tarn-X) for about 10 min or so,
then rinse, dry, do the nine yards, and do the tumbler. Saves the media and
busts up and dissolves the carbon a lot inside the case. Tarn-X can be
reused several times before it turns yellowish. Just did a bag of ugly
boondock 30 Sprs that way. Thanks again.
TiborasaurusRex: Right on. That ought to do it.
Pukka Bukka: Just my thinking.
Ferguson101: First to like. :P
TiborasaurusRex: This one trimmed them down to 2.040ish, about halfway there, but I think
the cutting tool had some shavings on it when I tightened it down - so if a
guy would clean it up before tightening it it would trim a little closer.
:-/ Tired guy reloading... A headspace gauge will be needed primarily when
you time the barrel and cut the chamber, otherwise its not something a guy
would need everyday.
BygLebowski: Yep; on the real gnarly ones give it a go (i.e., brass left for dead)--for
the effect and time you'll never go back. Your grocery store will have it.
The HOac works on modest stuff in my experience..
BigBUSN: You should Try the Thulmers tumbler with Stainless Steel media. It does a
great job. It cleans everything so well it looks better then new. It even
cleans the flash hole and Primer Pocket.
TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man - she's the perfect chick for me.
ExON Norway: Great videos, can't wait till we get to ballistic table development.
alphawolf146714: Love the videos, want to give kudos to your mrs also its great that she is
involved in your project. Working on getting my wife involved with my
MultiMrNoone: I am curious, if you don't tumble until after resizing are you concerned at
all about scratching your dies or whatnot from all of the gunk on the
drew chan: hey man i shoot factory m855 rounds in my bolt, i bought the bullets to
reload it. and when i do its less accurate than the factory.... i use cci
#400, 24.5 gr. varget, and ss109 projectiles...... also when i seat and
crimp, it musrooms the base of the neck.... please help dude thanks!
Foss2506: Rex - thank you very much - these are so informative and clear. A couple of
questions: 1 - the video didn't show you measuring the case length after
you trimmed and de-burred it. If you did, would the Lee trimmer have taken
it 2.035?; and 2. I've been given a hornady headspace gauge - do you use
these and if so please would do an explanation some time? Really great
videos again - thank you.
Sanus180: Rex I've been using an air compressor to blow out the brass shavings once
I've resized... It saves having to it the brass in a tumbler.... I've
Darryl Mullen: I still tumble them after the soak, but the soaking removes or loosens the
residue, so the tumble only takes about 15 to 20 minutes. I'm really very
meticulous about reloading. I actually polish my cases with brass cleaner,
so when I prime, throw powder and load the actual bullet, they come out
looking better than new.
Barbarossa4U: I always measure the length of a few with the caliper after trimming just
to make sure they fall within range but I am meticulous like that.
Darryl Mullen: Another great and informative video. I also clean my brass again before I
prime. When I pick up brass at the range, or if my brass is really nasty, I
actually soak them in a solution of 1gal of water, 1 cup of vinegar and 2
tablespoons of salt for about 30 minutes. I then rinse them with clean
water and heat them in the oven at about 200 deg F for 10 minutes to get
the moisture out of the cases. You do not want to get the cases too hot as
this will make the body of the case pliable.
Pukka Bukka: BygLebowski is right Tibo. You gotta work out a way. This knowledge should
be generating some income. The napster guy is with spotify. Even maybe
donations for now? So it's still about getting the knowledge out there,
LKN4WAR: It's slow but the Sinclair ultimate micrometer trimmer works very well. I
hand chamfer some brass and can hear a distinct frequency change when
outside chamfer after a number if turns back n forth. Thanks for videos.
hooterman2828: i've seen some videos with the guys are using a hammer instead of a press,
is there a certain type of die set you have to get to use the hammer or are
they just using a regular die set and just using a hammer for pressure
instead of the bench mount press?
TiborasaurusRex: Thanks man.
Darryl Mullen: Haven't tried Tarn-X. Maybe I'll give that a shot, but for the money, my
recipe is much cheaper I am sure. :) Thanks.
johnny wadd: Good video.
Nathan Nelson: Dryfirefive it seems you only like to say good things for politicians and
little boys. That being said I commend u rex for all your hard work on
these vids. keep up the great work on the series. Many of us that didn't
get this knowledge passed down, are surely grateful for you time and
efforts. Keep em coming your badass in my book brother....dryfirefive u
Justin Reed: How many times can you reuse the same brass casing?
TiborasaurusRex: Check your case length. That could crinkle your necks if they are running
too long. Trimming may be the cure for that. Many of the SS-109s available
on the market are 'pulled' bullets, which may have been damaged or
deformed. That could do it as well. Also, generally speaking, load
development is very important to find that harmonic sweet spot. I discuss
this a little more in detail later on. Consistency across the board is the
name of the game - it takes lots of practice. Hang in there :-)
TiborasaurusRex: Right on. That may be very helpful.
TiborasaurusRex: Good question. My brass is usually pretty clean before I resize, however -
if they have any detectable gunk on them, I will tumble them a bit before
resizing as well. Tumbling after trimming is still highly recommended as
brass shavings mixed into the powder charge will be problematic.
daniel glisson: what do you think about steel media?
TiborasaurusRex: It depends on a great deal of factors, but a typical rifle case can last
anywhere from 3 to 8 or reloads.
jon gibson: Second To Like More! Naa LOL Great Videos Rex
pv107: Thanks for taking the time to do the presentations.
BigBUSN: The tumbler holds 15lbs. But the stainless media is 5lbs. So what I do is
put about 5 lbs of cases 1 tablespoon of Dawn soap and about 1/2 gallon of
water. That's about 15lbs total. I let it run for 2-4hrs depending on the
cases. I guarantee you will never clean a primer pocket again if you go
this route. Then after you size your cases throw them in your walnut media
to get the oil off.
Justin Reed: Awesome! thank you!
raythemanroe: Do you full length size or neck size your .243? If you know how much are
you moving your brass?
counterclockwisester: Thanks for the video. I am concerned about puffing and blowing lead
styphthanate ash reamed out of the primer pocket with your primer pocket
cleaner. If you just do a few of these, I suppose the health effects will
be minimal. If you do many, you should take more care to control lead
contaminated dust. Disposable nitrile gloves are also a means of
controlling contamination that could enter through cuts and scratches on
the skin of your hand.