popacapnyoass3: If you still own this DPMS, about how many rounds do you have through it
and have you had any problems with the rings? The reason I ask is I got a
Dpms in trade and the bolt carrier was defective. The milling job on the
gas chamber for the bolt and rings was butchered at the point where the
rings tapper down in the chamber. The carrier was milled a little too deep
which allows the front ring to slip off the sharp ledge before snatching
back into the ring area of the chamber. When the bolt cycles, the front
ring rips and smears which locks the whole gun up tight. Most high quality
carriers are beveled at the point where the rings begin to fit snug in the
chamber which keeps from damaging the rings. If you take the bolt out and
shine a bore light or flash light in the chamber you can see which "step
down" you have.
Manuel Sanchez: Great video thanks...can you install a free floating rail system with that
Keith Richards liver: Damn man. For $150 more you could have bought the entire rifle.
bgallaher77: My plan is to post a rifle and a carbine stock install this week.
andrademeza: QUESTION: i just bought this same upper from midway (they are 415 now btw
oh and i got the last one so they are now backordered..hehehe.). and my
question is will i need to buy a comercial spec buffer tube & buffer or can
i use a mil-spec..i ask because on the website it says the bcg is comercial
spec i think. thanks for any help, and yes im a total noob and building my
Richard Lee: "should meet the federal 16" minimum requirement.".. Could you please
verify that with a good measuring tape? I've been out reading some AR stuff
and I'm wondering if they are including the flash hider as part of their
16" spec... For thread protection, I could cut off the 'hider' cage and
screw the nub back on..
andrademeza: "The bolt from the upper will work either way" THANKS!! that sentence was
the key answer i was looking for. thanks for the help. i didnt ask the
question right...i guess but you answered me the right way anyway..lol. oh
and will check out the CAR stock video. thanks.
bgallaher77: I think that basically completes the build. Stripped lower, Lower Parks
Kit, Buttstock assembly (stock, extension tube, buffer, spring) and an
assembled, headspaced upper with bolt carrier assembly. The lower can
usually be had for $100 give or take. I don't know about legality issues.
You can get a heavy barreled version of the DPMS that is not threaded. You
can also get post-ban uppers from other manufactures for similar, put
probably a little more, cost. So, about $600. Not bad for an AR
Richard Lee: I was looking at the fixed stock, (because of MA laws) but the one I was
looking at is B/O for months. So, maybe the "DPMS Buttstock Assembly
6-Position Commercial Diameter Collapsible AR-15 Carbine Synthetic Black
Product #: 229100 DPMS #: CS-AP4" ($54) would do the job.?. I could adjust
it to the best LOP and install a steel pop-rivet to lock the length. To
comply with the old AWB, that MA still clings to. I know next to nothing
about ARs.. Just don't want to buy incompatible parts.
todd reinert: i recommend the FN 1 in 9 twist 16 inch m4 cut chromemolie lined barrel and
the FN stripped upper
bgallaher77: I wonder if you could leave off the flash hider and add a thread protector.
The barrel alone should meet the federal 16" minimum requirement.
propdoctor21564: Good video... I've been looking at this model and also found the Sportacle
model complete rifle at Walmart last week for 617.00 which I may buy.
Richard Lee: Instead of worrying about being MA legal, I went ahead and spent $650 for a
MA neutered rifle (S&W M&P).. Saved a bunch of time too. Now I can use that
time cranking the Dillon.. :)
Richard Lee: I'm not interested in a heavy barrel. If I decide to build it, I want it
light. When you get older, the old match rifles seem to get heavier. Just
have to check out the local dealers for a good deal on a 'small' pin
lower.. Oh yeah, and order some 10rd mags.. :(
bgallaher77: With a fixed stock, you can get either in a kit or as parts the rifle
length extension tube, rifle spring, rifle buffer, a spacer, a screw, and
the buttstock. Together these make the kit. Looks like the Olympic Arms,
which is more expensive, is in stock. Check out my video on the Ace ARFX
stock if you want, published 9/26/2011. With a carbine, you need the
carbine extension, carbine spring/buffer, an end plate, and a castle nut.
And the stock. Not sure about fixed w/ this version.
bgallaher77: Well, I don't have a ton of experience here either. My understanding is
that either the military or commercial receiver extension (buffer tube)
will work on the lower receiver. The bolt from the upper will work either
way. If you get an aftermarket stock and/or buy stock and tube separately,
then they need to by the same type. I do have a video on installing the CAR
stock, if you are interested (AR-15 Adjustable Stock Install, posted
10/28/2012) Hope this helps.
bgallaher77: The nice thing about ARs is that you can easily change parts yourself.
Check out AR15(dot)com for lots of info, or go to Barnes and Noble and find
a Patrick Sweeny book to look over (Gunsmithing rifles is one, and heard
that he has one dedicated to ARs, too). Zedikier Publishing and Fulton
Armory both have excellent books. With the stock, choose either carbine or
full rifle. You can always switch later put need to replace all the parts.
Richard Lee: Nice looking upper! Not a bad price either. Besides a nakid lower, would a
DPMS #: LRPK-1 ($52.99) and fixed stock like the UTG UTG #: RB-T469B
($54.99) complete a ($483) rifle? I'm guessing that leaving off the flash
hider would keep it legal in MA... Maybe..?. :)
Richard Lee: I'm sure you're right. Since the flash hider is not welded to the barrel.
It's removable. My guess is the barrel alone is at least 16.10 inches.
bgallaher77: Sounds like money well spent. $650 is pretty reasonable for an AR. The
Dillon will help keeping it fed. I need to get a progressive press one of
todd reinert: for starts