Craig Rogers: Hmmm, 1:53 when the syringe is fitted, the pipe has air in it. Push the
plunger like that and it'll fill the system with air.
Kenneth Chew: great video.. most comprehensive i have seen! good work.. one thing,
please leave out the cheesy background music next time :)
Dmitry Khimoroda: Awesome guide! Followed it and the brakes operate again. Many thanks!
thePavuk: I have them too, and front 180mm disc can catapult me from seat with one
finger pull. Just that bleeding doesn't look user friendly like SLX/XT.
bungaunga: Air bubbles must be flushed out of system. If you do the "pull-push" on
caliper with syringe you will get air bubbles out of tube, but not out of
chambers behind pistons due to recoil when releasing syringe.
Alex Gynnild: Anyone have experience with improving the stopping power on these
(different pads and bigger rotor)? I´ve bled mine and i´ve never been so
disapointed. My bike with cantilever brakes will kill it any day in a brake
test, even if i do it one handed vs two handed.
neonbluen851: the voice sounds kinda like the guy on "How It's Made"
HampshireDavid: Is this procedure supposed to be done with the brake pads in the calipers
and a red pad spacer inserted OR is it supposed to be done with the pads
fitted with no red spacer so the pistons move OR do the pads need to be
removed and the pistons pushed back and a yellow Shimano spacer inserted????
ke26wagz: why would you put a little bag to suck air out, isn't that the same as
gently pulling back on the syringe? thanks
krush59: what do I do with the "old" oil in the funnel and the bag/bottle after the
norbu1987: i don't get it whats the difference between normal disc break and this with
Alex Gynnild: LOL Mr know n´do it all. Bleeding´s easy... and if you can stop on a dime,
you´re going to slow ;) Piston leak showed to be my problem (not uncommon
with these brakes). And if you think I´m saying stupid things, why do you
need to point it out instead of sharing you great wisdom as the bike
mechanic you are?
HampshireDavid: I've re-adjusted the caliper after bleedin by loosenin the bolts, applyin
the brake so it aligns itself onto the rotor, then slowly tightenin the
bolts up. As i used a spacer when bleedin the pistons were pushed back so
when i refitted the pads they should of re-adjusted themselves also i
believe??? I looked online & alot of people have said Shimano brakes have a
bit more travel than others, I'm used to my Magura rim brakes havin low
travel, about 20mm. The Shimano has around 30mm.
lukeSkywalkwer: Hi, im not shure wether i should bleed my brakes, the problem is that the
two brake pads are too close together so that the disc doesnt fit in
between. the modell is the br485.
bungaunga: Hello Alex. These brakes are terrible. I suggest you replace them with
M596. I have those now and its like poetry braking with 1 finger. Best
bungaunga: I used to own these brakes. When they work they are average at best. Need
to do good rebleed before serious use. It doesnt say, but for better
results you should get hose with brake caliper vertical, so more air
bubbles surface. Also this is bleeding procedure for new 2012 Shimano
hydraulic disc brake systems.
Bixio Rimoldi: Thanks a lot. My brakes were no longer effective, but after following the
procedure you describe they work great.
Josh Davis: Im a bike mechanic and to compare the braking force of a cantilever to
these brakes is a joke. I just finished a successful bleed and I was able
to stop on a dime using just one finger... maybe you should learn how to
actually bleed and adjust hydraulics better before you say stupid things.
B Hsu: Very useful and thorough tutorial for anyone who would like to re-bleed
these brakes (which is highly recommended).
bungaunga: Hi. All you need to do is re-adjust/reset caliper pistons with plastic tire
tool and 10mm Allen/Hex wrench(yellow 10mm spacer from Shimano) without
brakepad being in caliper. Screwdriver might damage plastic shield of
piston. Also reallign caliper with rotor. I would write you whole
procedure, but its too long to write here and there are instructions on
Toolpark page, Shimano USA page and Youtube. (=
Alex Harris: useful advice... getting 2012 xtr levers for my saint calipers and wasn't
sure weather the yellow tub thing was the same attachment as the top of the
resivoir but that kinda settles it :)
Alex Gynnild: Thanks a lot (very quick response :) :. Won´t waste time or money on these
then. Looking forward to being able to go absolutely mental instead of
having to be careful. Best regards
hesediel84: Is the the same procedure for shimanno 445/446?
bungaunga: Yes, just brake handle looks different. (= All Shimano hydraulic disc
brakes since 2012 are rebleed in this fashion. I suggest you look-up
detailed instructions at Shimano page(techdoc). (=
bungaunga: Sorry, mineral brake oil only. You can Use Shimano mineral oil. I read
somewhere you can also use LHM+ or CHF 7.1 mineral oils. My advice is to
buy original Shimano mineral brake oil. If you lookup on internet you can
get a bargain. I got 1L bottle for 12€ in my country.
bungaunga: Hi. The best way to bleed Shimano brakes is to remove brake pads, push back
pistons and insert yellow spacer. For a quick fix you can just push
inbetween pads red spacer. Just be careful not to contaminate brake pads
with brake oil. Yellow spacer can be replaced with 10mm Allen (HEX) wrench.
badger2269: Thanks for posting this! Found the information really useful, even if the
presenter is really wooden!
Alex Gynnild: Nope
bungaunga: Hi. I've tried few Shimano Non-series brakes just after bleeding and fine
adjusting and were snappy responsive except my M575. Mechanic needed 2
hours to set them right. After one 30km drive brakes were loosing power,
air bubbles in system and so on. Really for your own safety buy M596, which
are not that expencive and they have a lot of stopping power. Shimano M575
are rubbiesh. =S
HampshireDavid: Thanks for that, i actually used one half of the yellow 2 part block
designed to grip the hose when shortening it, it was 10mm also. I've bled
the rear brake which i had shortened, it's now just like the front. One
thing i have noticed about my Shimano M575 brakes, there seems to be quite
a bit of lever travel before they bite completely onto the disk, theres's
still room between lever and grip though. Is this normal to have quite a
bit of travel, my Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes have less.
bungaunga: Hi. You probably need to re-adjust/recenter brake caliper. Instructions are
on the internet. BTW: i bought new brakes M596 because i had a lot of
problems with M575(need to rebleed every 100km, lack of power and so on).
Since im a bit large person (working on it =P) i needed more stoping power.
My advice is: buy M596 and forget about M575. Shimano M575 are a failure.
Sad, but true.
119silverfox: cheers nice one :)
bungaunga: Hello. If you have the same small screw on your brake handle as in this
video, probably yes. Please read a techdoc at Shimano techdoc page. Cheers
dannymite1981: ive never had hydraulic brakes before so first time bleedin my brakes.is
this procedure the same for shimano m445 brakes?
Outpost Omega: thanks a lot! ordered that tool and did everything like in the video. works