Kenneth Chew: great video.. most comprehensive i have seen! good work.. one thing, please leave out the cheesy background music next time :)
Dmitry Khimoroda: Awesome guide! Followed it and the brakes operate again. Many thanks!
Bixio Rimoldi: Thanks a lot. My brakes were no longer effective, but after following the procedure you describe they work great.
Outpost Omega: thanks a lot! ordered that tool and did everything like in the video. works perfect! thanks!
thePavuk: I have them too, and front 180mm disc can catapult me from seat with one finger pull. Just that bleeding doesn't look user friendly like SLX/XT.
Alex Gynnild: LOL Mr know n´do it all. Bleeding´s easy... and if you can stop on a dime, you´re going to slow ;)
Piston leak showed to be my problem (not uncommon with these brakes).
And if you think I´m saying stupid things, why do you need to point it out instead of sharing you great wisdom as the bike mechanic you are?
Josh Davis: Im a bike mechanic and to compare the braking force of a cantilever to these brakes is a joke. I just finished a successful bleed and I was able to stop on a dime using just one finger... maybe you should learn how to actually bleed and adjust hydraulics better before you say stupid things.
krush59: what do I do with the "old" oil in the funnel and the bag/bottle after the procedure?
neonbluen851: the voice sounds kinda like the guy on "How It's Made"
Alex Gynnild: Thanks a lot (very quick response :) :. Won´t waste time or money on these then.
Looking forward to being able to go absolutely mental instead of having to be careful.
bungaunga: Hello Alex.
These brakes are terrible. I suggest you replace them with M596. I have those now and its like poetry braking with 1 finger.
Alex Gynnild: Anyone have experience with improving the stopping power on these (different pads and bigger rotor)?
I´ve bled mine and i´ve never been so disapointed.
My bike with cantilever brakes will kill it any day in a brake test, even if i do it one handed vs two handed.
Alex Gynnild: Nope
bungaunga: Hi. I've tried few Shimano Non-series brakes just after bleeding and fine adjusting and were snappy responsive except my M575. Mechanic needed 2 hours to set them right. After one 30km drive brakes were loosing power, air bubbles in system and so on. Really for your own safety buy M596, which are not that expencive and they have a lot of stopping power. Shimano M575 are rubbiesh. =S
Hairy Redflapps: I've re-adjusted the caliper after bleedin by loosenin the bolts, applyin the brake so it aligns itself onto the rotor, then slowly tightenin the bolts up. As i used a spacer when bleedin the pistons were pushed back so when i refitted the pads they should of re-adjusted themselves also i believe??? I looked online & alot of people have said Shimano brakes have a bit more travel than others, I'm used to my Magura rim brakes havin low travel, about 20mm. The Shimano has around 30mm.
bungaunga: Hi. You probably need to re-adjust/recenter brake caliper. Instructions are on the internet. BTW: i bought new brakes M596 because i had a lot of problems with M575(need to rebleed every 100km, lack of power and so on). Since im a bit large person (working on it =P) i needed more stoping power. My advice is: buy M596 and forget about M575. Shimano M575 are a failure. Sad, but true.
Hairy Redflapps: Thanks for that, i actually used one half of the yellow 2 part block designed to grip the hose when shortening it, it was 10mm also. I've bled the rear brake which i had shortened, it's now just like the front. One thing i have noticed about my Shimano M575 brakes, there seems to be quite a bit of lever travel before they bite completely onto the disk, theres's still room between lever and grip though. Is this normal to have quite a bit of travel, my Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes have less.