aintgonnahappen: Dude, you are awesome. What a great job.
TomKaren94: If your blade is parallel to the fence and the direction of the slide, the
only other concern is whether the wood is fully stabilized in the drying
process. I remember sometimes the kerf would close on me... 25 years ago.
But I can't think of a time since then. I've never used a blade guard nor
a riving knife.
If absolute safety is a must, don't use a any tools... ever. But if
reasonable, sensible safety is your goal, it's more in your technique than
in the tool. I've only had one workshop accident in close to 50 years of
woodworking... I ripped a narrow board by hanging my hand over the fence,
got hold of it as it began to fall off the back of the saw table, and
promptly drew my hand back, putting the end of my thumb right into the
blade. Lost the last bone in my thumb, got 19 stitches and I wasn't able
to work for 4 months. It wasn't the safety accessories or lack thereof
that caused it... it was the fact that I was cutting on my table saw while
thinking about the measurements for my next dovetail setup on the router
table. My fault... not the saw's.
Morning Wood Worker: A concrete top? Wow I never would have thought of that! Sweeeeet!
Matt Evans: Mr. Heisz, you are not only obviously skilled, you are a brilliant designer.
I look forward to shamelessly copying all your builds in an attempt to show
my friends I'm better than they are. But it'll be a lie, because I'm not.
You are, John. You are better than my friends. Masterfully done.
Dave Roy: I wanted to ask, on your site you said your shop was -12. Would that
present a problem with the wood expanding and contracting and putting some
of the accuracy off once you heat the shop? I do not heat my shop when not
in use, but never heat it very hot, when working you stay warm anyway.
danny chan: A real home made table saw!
Dave Roy: Very nice! I built a table saw in one day out of a old 10" miter saw,
because I needed one. Like you, I plan on building one exactly the way I
want, to suit me. I will use some of your ideas, very good info. Thanks for
sharing your skill.
Hey Rob Ace dude. Its because we can.
vincent7520: Did I undestand well ?… The side table is "concrete" ???… I'm amazed,
simply amazed. So ingenious !!!… Wonderful.
John Heisz: Thank you!
Rusty Case: You did a nice job on your project! I think, you will discover a single 1/4
- 20 bolt on your adjustable feet to be marginal. Two on each would be far
superior over the long run.
deezynar: I've been using a tablesaw w/out a riving knife for years and I've never
had a kick-back. I never saw green wood and I always keep the wood tight
against the fence.
Andrew Goodrick: Out of curiosity, in retrospect would you consider adding a blade hood that
accepts the hose to your shopvac to suck away any dust that would fly off
cwebsterlusk: I would LOVE to see the mechanism that the motor and all ride on. That's
the part that seems to elude me when I look at building my own.
Justin Migliorisi: If they were smart enough they'd know it too and have their own you tube
channel. Anyways bad ass saw. Hoping to make my own table saw. This is good
inspiration. Thanks. Justin
Seyed H.H: that was WOW man. tnx for sharing
John Heisz: Concrete is not for everyone, that's for sure. To do it again, I'd probably
end up with a better top than last time, and cast in a ring for a standard
throat plate. The other materials I'd consider are Corian (or some other
brand solid surface), or steel plate. When laminating wood with metal
sheet, it needs to be done top and bottom, to stop it from cupping.
John Heisz: You must be talking about the sanding table - it's the only thing that has
drawers. There is a very detailed build article on my site about it, and a
few videos on here.
John Heisz: Thanks. I'll do a SketchUp model of the fence and add it to the article on
my site, probably within the next few days.
577666: The riving knife is to prevent the cut wood from pinching the blade, which
can be damaged/bent without. It is nothing to do with training. What
nonsense are you talking about!
John Heisz: Yes, a few. Lots of videos on here plus my website is full of DIY projects.
John Heisz: That doesn't happen to me. I have the experience to know how to avoid
John Heisz: I made the saw this way, rather than making it it with a crank for bevel
adjustment. More detail in the linked article.
deezynar: Good point on putting plate on top and bottom to keep it flat. I think
1/16" thick would be plenty, it's just there for wear.
Lenny F: did you modify the saw to give you the sliding blade tilt adjustment rather
then the crank wheel?
rob ace: Why would someone build this ?
Lech Tokarski: świetna robota - gratuluję
deleetmeeh: Could you show us a video of how you made your work bench in the
background? I'm interested about the the drawer slides if they have wooden
runners or normal slides. I'm about to start a built in work station in my
John Heisz: Thanks!
TableWolfMusic: Good grief, this is brilliant.
1too3fore: Don't understand how the leg leveling works. Can you provide more details?
izzy swan: have seen many homemade saws and this is by far the best I have ever seen!
Just plain Awesome John!
xxdjcharlierockxx: awesome table...wish i had space for one...i just drag my ryobi outside
nizmojoeblows: by the way, that was a terrible analogy and it hardly makes sense.
seriously think about your opinions before you post.
Rusty Case: :-) Well that's great to hear, John! Also, when using hardware store
quality bolts, which are frequently Grade 5's, I feel a 5/16 bolt is
superior, and will fit in most applications a 1/4 is used. Yet if it works,
it works! :-)
kevin hagan: Yep. Same here.
dpeagles: I am always amazed at the ingenius fellows on youtube. Very well done. I
have to admit though, I would just buy a tablesaw.
John Heisz: Thanks. It's a 15 amp universal motor, from another table saw. All the
details are in the website article, link in the description.
John Heisz: The drawer slides don't directly support the table, but they would probably
be more than strong enough.
John Heisz: Thanks and thanks for watching.
deezynar: I have a plywood extension to the right of my metal saw top. It doesn'y get
nearly as much of the wear because it's a foot away from the blade. You may
be right that plywood would get worn if it's in the area nearest the blade.
I'd consider mounting a thin piece of plate steel or aluminum onto a
plywood base. Pouring concrete just seems like it's too much hassle. You
think extra mass is a good thing. Several layers of MDF get pretty heavy,
that may be a way of adding mass & rigidity.
John Heisz: I bought the tape from Lee Valley, but to do it again, I would have used
slices of the solid UHMW. The tape rubs off after a while. Let me know how
you make out with you build.
John Heisz: There's a link in the description to a detailed article about this saw.
mycompasstv: Fantastic, innovative build, well done sir!
Norbury53: Great stuff, thanks for that. But if you could give a bit more info on the
fence, rail thickness, clamping mechanism, etc it would be appreciated.
womble147: WOW WHAT A GREAT SAW. i MADE ONE BUT NOT AS GOOD AS YOURS,, WHAT A GREAT
RonRay: Excellent build!
John Heisz: I've added the SketchUp model for the fence to the article on my site. It's
on the last page.
Norbury53: I look forward to that - many thanks again.
Elis de Waard: This vid made me subscribe. Man, awesome job you did there!